Frequently Asked Questions

Not the same way as open framing. Standard spray foam expands quickly and needs an open cavity, so in finished walls we use a slow-rise injection foam or dense-pack cellulose through small holes, then patch them. If the walls are open during a remodel, regular spray foam goes in directly.

Foam itself is not food for mold, but wood behind it can still rot if water gets in from a roof, window or plumbing leak. That is why we look for leaks and damp framing first and fix the moisture problem before any foam goes on. Closed-cell foam on a cold surface also helps stop the condensation that leads to mold.

Each has its place. Closed-cell is the usual pick for rim joists, basement and crawl space walls, roof decks and pole barns because it resists vapor and water. Open-cell works well in interior walls and some rooflines where vapor control is handled, and it costs less per square foot.

HomeGuide's national range is about $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, and many contractors have a job minimum of $1,000 to $2,000 or more. Thickness, foam type, access and prep move the price a lot. We give you a written estimate after seeing the space.

Kalamazoo County is in Climate Zone 5, where the Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an attic with no insulation and adding R-49 if you already have 3 to 4 inches. In most attics we seal the leaks with foam and then blow loose fill to that depth.

Its current rebate chart lists amounts for attic, above-grade wall, basement wall, crawl space and rim joist insulation, with minimum areas and a December 31 application cutoff. Check the chart before you start, since programs change, and we will give you the R-value and square footage the form needs.

Two to three inches is common, which gives roughly R-10 to R-21 using HomeGuide's R-5 to R-7 per inch. We size it to the space and your goals and write the thickness on the estimate.

There is an odor while the foam cures, which is why HomeGuide advises staying out for 24 hours or more. We ventilate during and after the job and tell you when it is fine to go back in.

Usually the old material comes out first so the foam can bond to the framing or deck. In an attic floor, we may leave sound insulation in place, seal the bypasses around it, and add loose fill on top.

Several national chemical companies make two-part spray foam systems for contractors. What matters more for you is the foam type, its rated R-value per inch and the thickness installed, all of which we list on the estimate.

The Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an uninsulated attic in Zone 5, which covers Kalamazoo County, or adding R-49 over 3 to 4 inches of existing insulation. We measure what you have and quote what it takes to get there.

It helps a lot when it is paired with air sealing, because most ice dams start with warm air leaking into the attic. Ventilation and gutter or roof details also play a part, and we point out anything we see.

Its current chart lists attic rebates for at least 500 square feet, ranging from $125 to $200 for combined gas and electric customers depending on the final R-value, with lower amounts for electric-only customers. Check the current chart before starting.

Not always. Dry, clean insulation can stay, with sealing done around it and new fill added on top. Wet, moldy, rodent-soiled or suspect material should come out.

Not with ordinary open-cell or closed-cell spray foam, which expands too quickly for a closed cavity. We use slow-rise injection foam or dense-pack cellulose instead, both installed through small holes.

Not when the outside of the wall keeps rain out and leaks are fixed first. We check for signs of water before filling and leave alone any wall that is getting wet until it is repaired.

Most houses take one to three days depending on size and whether we drill from outside or inside. Rooms stay usable during the work.

Often, yes. In a house with hollow walls, the walls are a large share of the outside surface. We look at both and tell you which step gives the most benefit for the money.

The rim joist, almost always. It is a small area that leaks a lot of air and costs relatively little to seal. Walls come next, ideally before any finishing.

It is a common cause of mold in finished basements, because damp air passes through the batt and condenses on the concrete. Foam or foam board against the concrete avoids that.

In our climate, a sealed crawl space with a vapor barrier and insulated walls usually stays drier and keeps the floor above warmer. We check for water and grading problems first.

Yes. Many owners have us foam the rim and walls and then frame and drywall themselves. The drywall usually serves as the required thermal barrier.

For drip control alone, a thin closed-cell layer can be enough. For a building heated all winter, the roof and walls get more. We size it after asking how you use the building.

Usually not well. Foam needs to bond to clean steel or wood. In many cases the old facing has to come down first, and we include that in the estimate if so.

An attached garage benefits from sealing the shared wall and ceiling even if it is not heated, since that protects the house. A detached, unheated garage may only need it if condensation is a problem.

Foam has temperature limits for the surface and the material. In cold weather we may need to warm the building first or schedule on milder days.

Only if it is wet, soiled, moldy or blocking air sealing. Clean, dry insulation can stay with new material added on top.

Most attics take a day for removal, with sealing and new insulation the same or next day, depending on size.

Vacuum removal runs the hose from the attic to bags outside, so very little dust gets into living space. We still cover the path and the area under the hatch.

We stop and tell you. Testing and abatement are done by licensed specialists, and we insulate after the space is cleared.